If there is one thing that I miss from our city-life, is the
choice of Music concerts that we
had. What with Karnataka- Sangh’s Sunday
morning musical feasts, Pratha-swar at
Ravindra Natya mandir, the numerous shows at Nehru centre – .....sigh... So the other day I was just mentioning this
fact to an acquaintance here and he promised to inform me about any concerts in
the vicinity. Sure enough, he called up the other day to tell me about an
all-night music program, at a place called Karikaan Parameshwari temple about
10 kms from Honavar. I had never heard
about this place so I took down the directions. He warned us about the steep
road to the place and asked us to carry some warm clothes as it was an open-air
concert from 7 pm to 7 am.
So Saturday night (the first Saturday after Magh Purnima) we
decided to leave after our usual farm-chores and an early dinner. The ride on
the almost empty NH-17 was a real pleasure. I had googled the place and got the
precise distances, so we could spot the narrow road leading to Areangadi town
quite easily. We had to travel about 6 kms and then we would see an arched
entrance leading to the temple. Most
temples in this area have elaborate, brightly lit decorated arched entrances,
so we almost missed this one- it was a
dull grey square entrance leading to what looked like a forest area, with a
barely legible name painted on it. This
is when my Kannada reading skills come to my rescue. The whole area was
deserted so I could gawk and decipher it laboriously. Yes –this is the place I
stated to hubby who looked rather unconvinced – he expected some banner or some
some indication of the Music program – but there was none. Are you sure you
heard right .. is it really today?...... Aw come on – if not, let us enjoy a ride in
the wilderness I replied.
So we set off onto the road which got increasingly narrower
and steeper. Several hairpin bends later, not a soul in sight, in total
darkness as the forest cover obscured the moonlight and even I started doubting
whether I had got the name and the directions right. Temple names can be very
confusing in this area. So, we continued up the road. Ocassionally the forest
cover would open up, displaying a brilliant moonlit view of the valley. Only 2 kms more I said peering at the
speedometer – well 2 kms on a narrow gravelly road with steep haipin bends can
seem pretty long when it is getting close to midnight. But then, google maps are right most of the
times (thank heavens) and indeed after 2 kms, we reached a clearing which
appeared like a parking lot with scores of cars and 2 wheelers parked. We walked out in the chill night air. The
entrance to the temple was abuzz with people. The melodious strains of Raga
Kafi kannada rose as we removed our footwear in the designated area and walked
in. The music seemed to be coming from
the upper level, so we walked up the narrow flight of stairs onto what looked
like a terrace. The musicians were seated on this, and in front, an amazing
sight greeted our eyes. The audience was spread out on the rocky hillside all
of them bundled up in shawls and sweaters. We picked our way carefully up the
rocks and found a comfortable place and sat down. What a view!!!! The whole
valley lay before us bathed in the moonlight, the musicians were weaving out
their magic and the enthralled audience lay sprawled on the rocks. It was a
night to remember.
We enjoyed every bit of the 2 hours that we spent there. It
was tempting to stay on till morning to watch the dawn break over the landscape
and listen to a few morning ragas, but morning at the farm is the busiest and
we had to get back.
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| A view of the temple during the day |
